At the back, the hair was generally arranged in small curls, a twist or braid worn pinned to the head, or pulled up smoothly. Most Frenchwomen powdered their hair with white powder Englishwomen generally left their hair unpowdered. Hair was worn in soft curls or waves, with little to no height. The Fontange of the 17th Century gradually saw a reduction in size and height as women for the first half of the 18th Century generally wore their hair small and close to the head.
Versions of the Fontange were worn by all ranks of English society. The style was created by the Marquise de Fontange when her coiffure was ruined while out hunting. The last decades of the 17th century introduced the “Fontange” as it became the most fashionable women's hairstyle with a mass of curls above the forehead that were supported by wire and decorated with a headdress of standing lace. Materials such as horse, yak, and human hair were customary in the wigs of the affluent. His use of wigs renewed public interest in flamboyant styles. This abstinence in extravagant style came to an end in 1660 when Charles II was restored to the throne.
Following the English Civil War (1642-1651), the Puritanical beliefs about modesty led Parliamentarian supporting women to wear their hair short and straight or bunched up underneath a white cap. Inspired by Charles I’s wife, Henrietta of France, the height of fashion for women was to part the hair in the middle, flatten the top, then frizz and curl each side of the head. The 17th Century saw a departure from the hairstyles made popular by Queen Elizabeth I and a move towards the latest French trends.
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